Palm oil may seem a natural food and biofuel, but has instead ended up as a flashpoint of environmentalist suspicion and increasingly shut out of certain global markets. The European Union, the world’s largest single market, has imposed increased import restrictions and labeling requirements on palm oil. It also has specific exclusions under the new U.S. renewables standards, and environmental groups target its users ranging even down to chocolate candy bars. Destroyer of rain forests, instigator of deadly Southeast Asian haze clouds, orangutan-killer — where did it all come off the rails?